Making A Silicone Prosthetic

After completing parts one and two of the face casting process, I then moved on to making my prosthetic. For my prosthetic I decide to sculpt a witches nose and chin, I wanted to base my character on both the witches in the new and old Wizard of Oz films. Below  is a list of the products I used to create my prosthetic as well as the method and pictures.

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Products and Tools needed:

  • 2 strips of Mod rock
  • Petroleum jelly
  • Plaster
  • 2 X 12″ by 12″ of Scrim
  • 3 X Mixing bowl
  • Access to water
  • Chisel
  • Flat wooden board
  • Silicone part A, B and a accelerate
  • Weighing sales
  • 1/2 inch paint brushes
  • Paper towel

Method

  • Build a clay wall similarly to before but this time it was twice as tall. Add a layer of Mod-Roc to provide more strength.
  • Once the wall was complete, paste a thin layer of petroleum jelly all over the exposed plaster on the face cast base, making it easier to separate the top and the bottom part of the mould.
  • Mix up a batch a plaster and added a beauty coat over the top of the sculpture. This is to ensure we get a good coverage of the full sculpt.
  • Pour a little more plaster onto the cast and allowed it to dry for a few minutes. Then add a layer of scrim over the top and added more plaster on top.
  • Poured some more plaster over the top to ensure none of the scrim was visible. Then leave to dry for 1 hour to ensure it is fully set.
  • Once set, remove the clay and Mod-Roc wall and gently file away any rough edges of the plaster with a metal file.
  • Clean out any of the Plasterline. Leave the white top part of the cast to soak in water for around 10 minutes. This is so the silicone doesn’t absorb into the open pours of the plaster. Once soaked pat dry ready for the next step. Finally apply a very light coat of petroleum jelly to act as a releasing agent.  .

Mixing Silicone 

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  • Place the empty plastic bowl onto the scales making sure it is still on 0 (This is so we don’t include the weight of the bowl as the -measurements have to be accurate in order to get a good batch of silicon)
  • Add 500grams of part A of the rubber silicone
  • Add 50grams of part B (Silicone catalyst)
  • Add Desired silicone colour a little at a time
  • Mix the pigment in thoroughly to ensure an even colour throughout the silicone
  • Add 5grams of the accelerent. This allows the silicone to set much quicker cutting the waiting time down dramatically.
  • Mix well
  • Once mixed thoroughly then pour into the top part of the mould
  • Once you are happy with the desired about of silicone immediately sandwich the two parts of the moulds together using the drilled dents as a guide to line it up correctly. You may need to use a clamp at this stage to tighten the two parts together.
  • Allow any excess silicone to drain out. This is a good sign, it shows that the mould is completely filled.
  • Then leave to dry completely for around 30-45 minutes. To tell if it is completely set, is to pour a small mount of silicone on the top of the moulds as this will act as a visible guide.

Final Image

After casting my prosthetic I then had to apply it to my model. Overall I am happy with the way my sculpting turn out as well as the look of it once it was cast. In hindsight I would of probably not have pre coloured my prosthetic,as it didn’t look right when I applied the rest of the make-up to my model.

 

Thanks for reading

Hannah xoxo

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